The Taj Mahal, a UNESCO site

Shah Ja built the Taj Mahal to honor his  favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Considered an architectural masterpiece, it was built between 1631 and 1653.

Sadly, according to oral history, the shah got to watch the last phases of construction from his cell, as his son took over the kingdom and imprisoned his father.

We decided to join the other tourists in front of the Taj

Agra adventures

Water buffalo
Very crowded motorbike
Burger king

The Baby Taj

The Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daula’s in Agra, only a short distance from the Taj Mahal, is nicknamed the ‘Baby Taj’ as it is thought to have been the model for the Taj Mahal. It is also called the ‘jewel box’.

Inlaid gemstones form the patterns
The tomb

His and her tombs

Our ITC hotel in Agra

Important monuments in or near Delhi

Jama Masjid

The  Jama Masjid served as the imperial mosque of the Mughal emperors until the empire ended in 1857. It was also a site of political meetings and unrest during several key periods of British rule.

The Red Fort, a UNESCO site

This fort/Palace in Old Delhi was the main residence of Mughal emperors.

The fort was plundered of its artwork and jewels in 1739. Most of the fort’s marble structures were subsequently demolished by the British following the Indian Rebellion of 1857.

The remains of the Red Fort

Qutub Minar, a UNESCO site

The Qutub Minar minaret  and “victory tower” is at the site of Delhi’s oldest fortified city.

Lunch

Lunch place most notable for these brightly colored bears

Gandhi Smriti memorial and assassination site

New and Old Delhi

Like many visitors, I was a bit confused as to when one referred to India’s capital city as New Delhi, old Delhi or simply Delhi.  The simple answer is that most of the famous monuments from Mughal times are in old Delhi, while New Delhi is the portion of the city built by the British during the British colonial era.  New Delhi still contains most government buildings.  For a more extensive description of old versus new Delhi, here’s one article.  https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/travel/destinations/what-is-the-difference-between-delhi-and-new-delhi/articleshow/106572882.cms

Beautiful colors and wares in Old Delhi
India gate (top) and National War Memorial

The India gate commemorates the 70,000 Indian soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the British Army during the World War I.

The national war memorial honors soldiers of the Indian Armed Forces who fought for independent India in conflicts with Pakistan and China, the 1961 War in Goa, Operation Pawan, and Operation Rakshak.

Challenging and captivating India

If you’ve been to India before, many things will seem familiar: the cacophony of sounds, smells, and colors, for example.  Also familiar is the need to take care with food and water. 

But some things may be surprising, such as the increased security at big hotels.  One goes through scanners much like our TSA scanners and all bags go through as well, every time one enters the hotel.  Cars and trucks go through a security check as well.  This was instituted in part because of the 1993 Mumbai (then Bombay) bombings. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/1993_Bombay_bombings

Sights from a rickshaw ride in old Delhi

Something that has changed, but perhaps not as much as one might hope, is the caste system.  Despite 1950s legislation to eliminate the caste system and the inequality it engendered, 3000 years of a caste based world view is hard to shake off.  Our tour leader, an otherwise nice guy, introduced himself as a Brahmin (the top level of the old system).  That would be roughly  equivalent to an American male proudly introducing himself as one of the one percent.  However, there has been progress, thanks to quotas, some lower and middle caste individuals have succeeded in getting college degrees, although progress is still most difficult for the Dalits (once called the untouchables). 

Furthermore, caste discrimination has impacted Indians who moved to Silicon valley to work in the tech industry. If an employee’s Indian boss discovered that an employee had been Dalit, discrimination was likely.   Seattle legislated against caste discrimination.

Eros hotel New Delhi

I’ll admit that after the long flights, and busy days, we were grateful for the comfort of our luxurious hotel.  My days as a backpacking traveler are sadly long gone.

Grand Canyon Bound

The trip was a fundraiser for Wheels Museum so we met there before hopping on our Amtrak train
We’re all settled in on the Amtrak train to Flagstaff.
From Flagstaff, we took a shuttle to Williams and the Grand Canyon Railroad hotel. This is the lobby.
The rooms were spacious and comfortable and they had a lovely pool
We had breakfast at the Fred Harvey restaurant before walking over to the train station across the street.
The Grand Canyon rail goes from Williams to the Grand Canyon. On our way, we saw antelopes, javalinas, an elk, a coyote, cows, ranch horses and wild horses.
Scenery along the train route.
The Grand Canyon is spectacular.
Another view of the canyon.
We found cephalopods and other fossils in the original grand canyon soil.
Another beautiful view of the canyon.
A great vegetarian sandwich at El Tovar.
The view from our lunch table at El Tovar. To have a chance to snag one of the rare window seats, make the earliest lunch reservation and cross your fingers.
My friend’s sandwich
Apple caramel creme brulee. Yummy.

A super rich chocolate dessert.

We saw a beautiful sunrise on the way back to Albuquerque on Amtrak.

Escape from Michigan snow

My oldest granddaughter, Ayley, came to visit recently. Back home in Michigan, it was still cold and snowy, so she really enjoyed our warm new Mexico weather. We booked her at the newly built Chaco hotel, which she really loved.

The hotel lobby has the sense of a historic kiva. Ayley also enjoyed our walks through the bosque.

One of the chainsaw sculptures in the bosque.
The rio grande, unsually high
Pinon pancakes at the Range cafe were a hit
Lots of fun art on the Range cafe ceiling
Ray and Ayley discussing serious things
A tempting case of delights
More fun art
We enjoyed some beers at the native owned Bow and Arrow brewery

We all had a great time and we’re sorry to say goodbye. Till next time.

Almost Time Travel

Amtrak train approaching la Posada hotel gate

Taking a train trip via Amtrak (http://Amtrak.com) to Winslow, Arizona from Albuquerque, New Mexico is as close as one can come to time travel to the old wild West without a time machine.

The train ride was smooth enough that one lady wrote and addressed 100 postcards. I jotted down notes in my journal using my fountain pens, and admired the beautiful scenery. The trip was sponsored by the Wheels Museum in Albuquerque. The train was immaculate and comfortable, with lots of leg room. There is a cafe onboard, with light snacks and a wonderful observation deck with huge windows.

For booking cheap travel, I found the wanderu (http://Wanderu.com) website helpful and often easier to use than Amtrak’s beautiful but sometimes overwhelming site. Wanderu also can be used to find deals on buses, trains, cars, and hotels.

Arriving after dark, guests exited the train to be immediately welcomed by the hotel lights. The train stops at the hotel’s back gate.

The train stops right at la Posada.
Every bit of this hotel is filled with wonderful art, plants, and details
Guests with mobility issues should request a ground floor room. There is no working elevator in this historic building.
One example of the beautiful woodwork art showcased throughout the hotel.
A beautiful headboard in one of the rooms
There are lovely seating areas throughout the hotel.

La Posada was designed by one of the first women architects, Mary Colter. Like Gaudi and Frank Lloyd Wright, she wasn’t a registered architect, so she wasn’t the architect of record on the blueprints, but she did the design for this and many other buildings in the Southwest. She also designed the lovely gardens with all their quiet conversation spaces.

One of many garden seating areas
Signs make it clear that the hotel is the official boarding site for Amtrak
The sign for the hotel
Another view of la Posada
Burro art in the gardens
More garden seating
Peggy from the Winslow Harvey girls gave an amazing presentation about la Posada and the Harvey girls. She’s an extraordinary storyteller and is available for group tours at just $5/person. Call Peggy Nelson at 928-289-4160 or 928-587-2287 to arrange a group tour. It’s well worth it.
Peggy took us on a tour of the paintings, including this suicide painting by hotel co-owner Tina Mion. Her paintings are exquisitely done but not necessarily themes you’d want for your house.
Another Tina Mion painting
Tina’s description of the painting
The turquoise dining room. The panels to the right are stained glass Santos.
A wickedly good dessert souffle
Half of a vegetarian platter (we split it, and it was plenty)
A chicken dish

An absolutely incredible corn/bean soup. The ladies are part of the group from the Wheels tour.

Winslow is known for the song Take it Easy by the Eagles. It includes the line “standing on the corner in Winslow, AZ”.
Ray and I stopped at a soda and sandwich stop in Winslow. This is a black cow, a root beer float with chocolate syrup. Prices were very reasonable.
Street scene from Winslow.
Winslow is on old route 66, one of the most famous roadways in America
The local market

Mail call while traveling

Recently, I was in New York City for two weeks visiting a new grandbaby. Since it was an unexpected trip, I had a lot of unfinished business back in Albuquerque.

New baby makes unexpected travel a pleasure

Fortunately, I was able to track my mail with the USPS informed delivery service. It let me see what was arriving each day, so if I needed to follow up on something,I could have my husband open it, PDF it, and email it. If you don’t already have this service, you should definitely sign up. If mail is predicted, but doesn’t arrive, a quick check mark alerts the USPS to the problem.